It can sometimes be challenging to keep your dog engaged and well exercised. And we all know that when left to find their own “entertainment”, a dog will come up with many ingenious ways to cause great property damage.
Investing in some dog toys will make everyone happier, and ultimately save you a lot more money.
Below are a list of dog toys that my dogs enjoy most. To keep your dog’s interest in his toys, you may want to cycle through different toys, each day of the week.
Note that the following descriptions are only based on my or other dog trainers experiences with these toys. Different dogs have different temperaments and will have different responses to a dog toy.
1. Hol-ee Roller Ball
These balls are great and safe for the teeth. All we have to do is get some hard dog biscuits, and put them into the Hol-ee Roller Ball.
There are two versions of the Hol-ee Roller Ball – the regular ball which has thinner rubber joints, and the extreme-ball which has thick rubber joints. I much prefer the extreme version because it is more challenging, as well as more durable.
Amazon Deals:
Hol-ee Roller
http://tinyurl.com/6murlrb
Hol-ee Roller X Extreme
http://tinyurl.com/6oo2jpc
2. Kong Rubber Toys
Kong rubber toys are tough and safe for most dogs.
I usually put canned dog food into a Kong Classic rubber toy, and then freeze it. This is a fun way to occupy my dog, especially when he is in his crate.
Sometimes, I further entice my dog by dropping in some cheese or sardines, before putting in the canned food. This provides the extra umph that gets him to work through the Kong.
Some other fun Kong toys are the Kong Dental Stick and the Kong Jump’n Jack. I stuff Innova EVO Small Bite kibble, or boiled chicken into the grooves of these two toys, and let my dogs chew on them.
You can also use Kong Stuff ‘N Paste, but I personally would not recommend it. The Kong paste frequently makes a mess all over the floor, and is not made from particularly good ingredients.
Amazon Deals:
http://tinyurl.com/849l2nd
3. Premier Busy Buddy Collection
My dogs like many of the Premier Busy Buddy interactive food toys.
The Twist and Treat is a good one to start with. Simply untwist the dog toy, put kibble inside, then twist the cover back on. At first, do not twist the cover on too tightly. In this way, our dog gets rewarded well for playing with the toy. Once the dog gains some experience, we can start tightening the lid more.
CAUTION: My Shiba Inu was able to tear off chunks from this toy when it was left with him unsupervised. Luckily, he just likes shredding and does not eat the shredded bits. It is best to take this toy away, once our dog is done with getting all the kibble out.
The Squirrel Dude is another fun dog toy that we can fill with kibble or other treats. If our dog has trouble getting the food out, we can cut off some of the rubber tabs at the bottom of the toy.
The most interesting one in the group is the Tug-a-Jug . I think it is hardest to get food out of this toy, so my Shiba Inu will only work on it when he is bored or really hungry, and does not have access to other food toys.
Initially, I unscrew the cover from the bottom of the jug, and fill up the jug with a good amount of kibble (over half full). This ensures that my dog is amply rewarded for playing with the toy. After he gains some experience, I slowly reduce the amount of kibble in the jug. It is difficult to get the last bits of kibble out, so I add more before the jug becomes too empty.
Amazon Deal:
http://tinyurl.com/7nslqw7
http://tinyurl.com/77nnm7n
http://tinyurl.com/89mj688
4. Buster Cube
In the beginning, I put the Buster Cube setting to maximum, so that my dog will be motivated to play with it. As my dog learns how the toy works, I slowly decrease the cube setting to make it more challenging.
When filling the cube, make sure all the kibble goes into the holes around the central column. Otherwise, the kibble will just collect at the bottom of the column. Then, when the Cube gets rolled, all the collected kibble will come out at once.
The Buster Cube does not work well on slippery, hard, surfaces (e.g. tile floors, wooden floors), because it will only slide on the floor, rather than roll. As a result, no food will come out. The Cube is good for carpeted surfaces and for outdoors.
Amazon Deal:
http://tinyurl.com/7hkex9d
5. Rhino Stuff & Chew
This nice rubber chew ball has chambers all around, that we may fill with food. It is most effective to use wet food, such as sardines, or boiled chicken. Sardines work really well with my Shiba Inu, and he is extremely motivated to get it all out.
Amazon Deal:
http://tinyurl.com/833gv9a
6. Nylabone Crazy Ball
The Nylabone Crazy Ball has a ball within a ball. It is easy to fill with dry dog treats, and the design is such that the treats do not come out too quickly.
The Crazy Ball comes with a small box of treats that are properly sized for the toy, but they are no longer sold. As an alternative, I fill the Crazy Ball with gog Treats. Just break the treats if to to a good size.
One issue with the Nylabone Crazy Ball is that it is made of hard plastic and can be rather noisy, especially on hard wooden floors. You may want to stay away from this one if you want to hear alot of noises.
7. Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball
The Omega Treat Ball is a great kibble ball. It is easy to fill with Innova small kibble, and the ball only releases a few pieces of kibble at a time. As a result, this toy engages my Shiba Inu for a good amount of time.
Amazon Deal:
http://tinyurl.com/7f5tyvo
8. Cheap Dog Toys
I have found many good deals on Amazon by looking through their discount dog toys. Here are some 50%-70% discount dog toys at Amazon.
http://tinyurl.com/6tua4ej
For this to work well, you may want to join Amazon Prime to save on shipping and handling costs.
Monday, November 28, 2011
Monday, November 14, 2011
Grooming
These are fantastically clean dogs, so grooming needs will likely be at a minimum for most individuals. A Shiba Inu coat is short, coarse and naturally waterproof, so there is little need for regular bathing. However, there is one one drawback - shedding, also known as blowing coat. They have a thick undercoat that can protect them from temperatures well below freezing. Shedding is heaviest during the seasonal change, but brushing should be performed on a daily basis whenever possible.
During the shedding season, which some owners swear is from January to December, it is highly recommended to use a comb to remove as much dead hair as possible. There are also doggie brush and vacuum combos that suck up the loose hair as you brush, very convenient if you can get one.
The best grooming tool I was told to buy and I agree the""Fur Free" brush. It takes all the dead hair off your pet, it great to use. Most pet groomers use these when you take you pet to get groom. Here a picture of the brush I use.
During the shedding season, which some owners swear is from January to December, it is highly recommended to use a comb to remove as much dead hair as possible. There are also doggie brush and vacuum combos that suck up the loose hair as you brush, very convenient if you can get one.
The best grooming tool I was told to buy and I agree the""Fur Free" brush. It takes all the dead hair off your pet, it great to use. Most pet groomers use these when you take you pet to get groom. Here a picture of the brush I use.
Health
Shiba Medications Allergy
There are several common health problems that always strike Shibas. Allergies to medication being the most common issue. As a responsible pet owner, your dog should receive proper vaccinations regularly from professional vets.
Whenever bring your dog to see a vet, you should always pay attentions to treatments that your dog going to have. Show your concern to the health of your Shiba and alert your vet that your pet is Shiba and sensitive to medications, stay in the vet’s clinic at least 30 minutes before you leave as a precautionary measure to ensure it has no negative reactions after medications.
Thyroid Problems
Another common health issue that Shiba may have is the thyroid problems. Thyroid problems vary and may cause several symptoms such as overweight or underweight. Serious thyroid problems can also lower the immune system.
Do not blame your Shiba if it has sudden change in its behavior and become aggressive. It may due to hidden thyroid problem. A better understanding on your your pet’s normal behavior patterns is important so that you can easily find out when something goes wrong. If it happen to be the thyroid disease, a proper medication can always resolve the issues that occurred.
Eye Defects & Vision Problems
Eye defects are the main reason that causes the degradation of Shiba’s vision. It is commonly found in this dog and should be checked by a veterinarian. When you buy a new Shiba puppy home, you should always take it to your vet for examination as soon as possible. The vet can do a thorough examination and make sure that there are no congenital defects or other problems that you need to be aware of, such as eyes defect. Proper medications will be provided by the vet if it is found with eye problems.
Food Allergic
Proper dog food feeding with dog dry food that contains well balanced amount of vitamins is crucial in keeping them healthy. Be aware of certain food that you buy from the store. Some dog foods are not suitable for dog as it may contain certain chemicals that may kill the dog in long term. Short terms problems seen would be the food allergic. A proper diet should be given to Shiba dogs. Dog Food Secrets written by Andrew is one of the well-written book that explain in details.
Generally Shiba is a sturdy dog that always stays fit. As long as proper care is provided, they are always healthy. If you need to study on how to keep your dog healthy and stay away from minor or major health issues, please refer to Malcolm Fields’s book – Dog Health Guide that is well-written on how you can deal with many health issues such as eye problems, ear problems, stomach and bowel disorders, vomiting, diarrhea, tooth and teething troubles, asthma and breathing woes, liver issues, older dog health concerns, or that pesky limp with a dozen possible causes and ways to treat them.
Source:
The National Shiba Inu Club of America (1992). AN OVERVIEW OF HEALTH PROBLEMS IN THE SHIBA INU. Retrieved http://www.shibas.org/newstand/health.html
There are several common health problems that always strike Shibas. Allergies to medication being the most common issue. As a responsible pet owner, your dog should receive proper vaccinations regularly from professional vets.
Whenever bring your dog to see a vet, you should always pay attentions to treatments that your dog going to have. Show your concern to the health of your Shiba and alert your vet that your pet is Shiba and sensitive to medications, stay in the vet’s clinic at least 30 minutes before you leave as a precautionary measure to ensure it has no negative reactions after medications.
Thyroid Problems
Another common health issue that Shiba may have is the thyroid problems. Thyroid problems vary and may cause several symptoms such as overweight or underweight. Serious thyroid problems can also lower the immune system.
Do not blame your Shiba if it has sudden change in its behavior and become aggressive. It may due to hidden thyroid problem. A better understanding on your your pet’s normal behavior patterns is important so that you can easily find out when something goes wrong. If it happen to be the thyroid disease, a proper medication can always resolve the issues that occurred.
Eye Defects & Vision Problems
Eye defects are the main reason that causes the degradation of Shiba’s vision. It is commonly found in this dog and should be checked by a veterinarian. When you buy a new Shiba puppy home, you should always take it to your vet for examination as soon as possible. The vet can do a thorough examination and make sure that there are no congenital defects or other problems that you need to be aware of, such as eyes defect. Proper medications will be provided by the vet if it is found with eye problems.
Food Allergic
Proper dog food feeding with dog dry food that contains well balanced amount of vitamins is crucial in keeping them healthy. Be aware of certain food that you buy from the store. Some dog foods are not suitable for dog as it may contain certain chemicals that may kill the dog in long term. Short terms problems seen would be the food allergic. A proper diet should be given to Shiba dogs. Dog Food Secrets written by Andrew is one of the well-written book that explain in details.
Generally Shiba is a sturdy dog that always stays fit. As long as proper care is provided, they are always healthy. If you need to study on how to keep your dog healthy and stay away from minor or major health issues, please refer to Malcolm Fields’s book – Dog Health Guide that is well-written on how you can deal with many health issues such as eye problems, ear problems, stomach and bowel disorders, vomiting, diarrhea, tooth and teething troubles, asthma and breathing woes, liver issues, older dog health concerns, or that pesky limp with a dozen possible causes and ways to treat them.
Source:
The National Shiba Inu Club of America (1992). AN OVERVIEW OF HEALTH PROBLEMS IN THE SHIBA INU. Retrieved http://www.shibas.org/newstand/health.html
Temperament
The Shiba Inu is a unique breed. Intelligent, active, energetic, they think pretty highly of themselves. They are famous for their spirited boldness and independent nature. If you are not careful, they will train you. Early obedience training is important, but even then, Shibas don't really enjoy being obedient. Off leash work is especially challenging and the recall might require a miracle. They love to run and they love to run away. They are escape artists and owners must be careful every single time they open a door because they will bolt. Some can even climb chain link fences. Shibas have been known to disappear for days at a time. They will hunt mice, squirrels, and other small animals if they can. Shibas need regular exercise but a spirited 30 minute walk each day should suffice. They are good watchdogs and only bark when there is a reason. They are reserved toward strangers. They tend to be aggressive toward other dogs, and can coexist peacefully with cats, but if a cat runs away, there's a good chance the Shiba will chase it. Shibas will do well with older, well-behaved children, but some are afraid of young children and alarmed by their squeals and quick movements. Many Shibas will run and hide from toddlers. If the toddler pursues the dog, it could easily result in a fear-biting incident. While a Shiba can be sweet, you will earn whatever affection you get. They are not lapdogs and prefer to sit beside you, not on you. They are not particularly cuddly and don't really like to be held. They spend a lot of time on their own, enjoying some quiet solitude. Because they don't really like to be touched or handled, grooming can be a real challenge. They are generally quiet, but do possess the Shiba scream -- a high-pitched banshee call. They let this scream go whenever they are unhappy, and it can be a bit embarrassing. They can be a bit of a drama queen. But despite all of the breed's idiosyncrasies, Shiba owners will tell you they are the best breed in the world: funny, loyal, playful and fast to housetrain. So if you want a dog who thinks he's smarter than you, and will try to push your buttons, then you might consider the beautiful, athletic, energetic Shiba.
Source:
Jacey Holden (1995). Shiba Inu. Retrieved http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/breeds/shibas.html
Source:
Jacey Holden (1995). Shiba Inu. Retrieved http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/breeds/shibas.html
Appearance
General Appearance
The Shiba Inu is the smallest of the Japanese native breeds of dog and was originally developed for hunting by sight and scent in the dense undergrowth of Japan's mountainous areas. Alert and agile with keen senses, he is also an excellent watchdog and companion. His frame is compact with well-developed muscles. Males and females are distinctly different in appearance: males are masculine without coarseness, females are feminine without weakness of structure.
Size
Males 14½ inches to 16½ inches at withers. Females 13½ inches to 15½ inches. The preferred size is the middle of the range for each sex. Average weight at preferred size is approximately 23 pounds for males, 17 pounds for females. Males have a height to length ration of 10 to 11, females slightly longer. Bone is moderate. Disqualification--Males over 16½ inches in dogs and under 14½ inches. Females over 15½ inches and under 13½ inches.
Head
Expression is good natured with a strong and confident gaze. Eyes are somewhat triangular in shape, deep set, and upward slanting toward the outside base of the ear. Iris is dark brown. Eye rims are black. Ears are triangular in shape, firmly pricked and small, but in proportion to head and body size. Ears are set well apart and tilt directly forward with the slant of the back of the ear following the arch of the neck. Skull size is moderate and in proportion to the body. Forehead is broad and flat with a slight furrow. Stop is moderate. Muzzle is firm, full, and round with a stronger lower jaw projecting from full cheeks. The bridge of the muzzle is straight. Muzzle tapers slightly from stop to nose tip. Muzzle length is 40% of the total head length from occiput to nose tip. It is preferred that whiskers remain intact. Lips are tight and black. Nose is black. Bite is scissors, with a full complement of strong, substantial, evenly aligned teeth. Serious Fault: Five or more missing teeth is a very serious fault and must be penalized. Disqualification--Overshot or undershot bite.
Body
Neck is thick, sturdy, and of moderate length. Topline is straight and level to the base of the tail. Body is dry and well muscled without the appearance of sluggishness or coarseness. Forechest is well developed. Chest depth measured from the withers to the lowest point of the sternum is one-half or slightly less than the total height from withers to ground. Ribs are moderately sprung. Abdomen is firm and well tucked-up. Back is firm. Loins are strong. Tail is thick and powerful and is carried over the back in a sickle or curled position. A loose single curl or sickle tail pointing vigorously toward the neck and nearly parallel to the back is preferred. A double curl or sickle tail pointing upward is acceptable. In length the tail reaches nearly to the hock joint when extended. Tail is set high.
Coat
Double coated with the outer coat being stiff and straight and the undercoat soft and thick. Fur is short and even on face, ears, and legs. Guard hairs stand off the body are about 1½ to 2 inches in length at the withers. Tail hair is slightly longer and stands open in a brush. It is preferred that the Shiba be presented in a natural state. Trimming of the coat must be severely penalized. Serious Fault--Long or woolly coat.
Color
Coat color is as specified herein, with the three allowed colors given equal consideration. All colors are clear and intense. The undercoat is cream, buff or gray. Urajiro (cream to white ventral color) is required in the following areas on all coat colors: on the sides of the muzzle, on the cheeks, inside the ears, on the underjaw and upper throat inside of legs, on the abdomen, around the vent and the ventral side of the tail. On reds: commonly on the throat, forechest, and chest. On blacks and sesames: commonly as a triangular mark on both sides of the forechest. White spots above the eyes permitted on all colors but not required. Bright orange-red with urajiro lending a foxlike appearance to dogs of this color. Clear red preferred but a very slight dash of black tipping is permitted on the back and tail. Black with tan points and urajiro. Black hairs have a brownish cast, not blue. The undercoat is buff or gray. The borderline between black and tan areas is clearly defined. Tan points are located as follows: two oval spots over the eyes: on the sides of the muzzle between the black bridge of the muzzle and the white cheeks; on the outside of the forelegs from the carpus, or a little above, downward to the toes; on the outside of the hind legs down the front of the stifle broadening from hock joint to toes, but not completely eliminating black from rear of pasterns. Black penciling on toes permitted. Tan hairs may also be found on the inside of the ear and on the underside of the tail. Sesame (black-tipped hairs on a rich red background) with urajiro. Tipping is light and even on the body and head with no concentration of black in any area. Sesame areas appear at least one-half red. Sesame may end in a widow's peak on the forehead, leaving the bridge and sides of the muzzle red. Eye spots and lower legs are also red. Clearly delineated white markings are permitted but not required on the tip of the tail and in the form of socks on the forelegs to the elbow joint, hind legs to the knee joint. A patch of blaze is permitted on the throat, forechest, or chest in addition to urajiro. Serious fault--Cream, white pinto, or any other color or marking not specified is a very serious fault and must be penalized.
The Shiba Inu is the smallest of the Japanese native breeds of dog and was originally developed for hunting by sight and scent in the dense undergrowth of Japan's mountainous areas. Alert and agile with keen senses, he is also an excellent watchdog and companion. His frame is compact with well-developed muscles. Males and females are distinctly different in appearance: males are masculine without coarseness, females are feminine without weakness of structure.
Size
Males 14½ inches to 16½ inches at withers. Females 13½ inches to 15½ inches. The preferred size is the middle of the range for each sex. Average weight at preferred size is approximately 23 pounds for males, 17 pounds for females. Males have a height to length ration of 10 to 11, females slightly longer. Bone is moderate. Disqualification--Males over 16½ inches in dogs and under 14½ inches. Females over 15½ inches and under 13½ inches.
Head
Expression is good natured with a strong and confident gaze. Eyes are somewhat triangular in shape, deep set, and upward slanting toward the outside base of the ear. Iris is dark brown. Eye rims are black. Ears are triangular in shape, firmly pricked and small, but in proportion to head and body size. Ears are set well apart and tilt directly forward with the slant of the back of the ear following the arch of the neck. Skull size is moderate and in proportion to the body. Forehead is broad and flat with a slight furrow. Stop is moderate. Muzzle is firm, full, and round with a stronger lower jaw projecting from full cheeks. The bridge of the muzzle is straight. Muzzle tapers slightly from stop to nose tip. Muzzle length is 40% of the total head length from occiput to nose tip. It is preferred that whiskers remain intact. Lips are tight and black. Nose is black. Bite is scissors, with a full complement of strong, substantial, evenly aligned teeth. Serious Fault: Five or more missing teeth is a very serious fault and must be penalized. Disqualification--Overshot or undershot bite.
Body
Neck is thick, sturdy, and of moderate length. Topline is straight and level to the base of the tail. Body is dry and well muscled without the appearance of sluggishness or coarseness. Forechest is well developed. Chest depth measured from the withers to the lowest point of the sternum is one-half or slightly less than the total height from withers to ground. Ribs are moderately sprung. Abdomen is firm and well tucked-up. Back is firm. Loins are strong. Tail is thick and powerful and is carried over the back in a sickle or curled position. A loose single curl or sickle tail pointing vigorously toward the neck and nearly parallel to the back is preferred. A double curl or sickle tail pointing upward is acceptable. In length the tail reaches nearly to the hock joint when extended. Tail is set high.
Coat
Double coated with the outer coat being stiff and straight and the undercoat soft and thick. Fur is short and even on face, ears, and legs. Guard hairs stand off the body are about 1½ to 2 inches in length at the withers. Tail hair is slightly longer and stands open in a brush. It is preferred that the Shiba be presented in a natural state. Trimming of the coat must be severely penalized. Serious Fault--Long or woolly coat.
Color
Coat color is as specified herein, with the three allowed colors given equal consideration. All colors are clear and intense. The undercoat is cream, buff or gray. Urajiro (cream to white ventral color) is required in the following areas on all coat colors: on the sides of the muzzle, on the cheeks, inside the ears, on the underjaw and upper throat inside of legs, on the abdomen, around the vent and the ventral side of the tail. On reds: commonly on the throat, forechest, and chest. On blacks and sesames: commonly as a triangular mark on both sides of the forechest. White spots above the eyes permitted on all colors but not required. Bright orange-red with urajiro lending a foxlike appearance to dogs of this color. Clear red preferred but a very slight dash of black tipping is permitted on the back and tail. Black with tan points and urajiro. Black hairs have a brownish cast, not blue. The undercoat is buff or gray. The borderline between black and tan areas is clearly defined. Tan points are located as follows: two oval spots over the eyes: on the sides of the muzzle between the black bridge of the muzzle and the white cheeks; on the outside of the forelegs from the carpus, or a little above, downward to the toes; on the outside of the hind legs down the front of the stifle broadening from hock joint to toes, but not completely eliminating black from rear of pasterns. Black penciling on toes permitted. Tan hairs may also be found on the inside of the ear and on the underside of the tail. Sesame (black-tipped hairs on a rich red background) with urajiro. Tipping is light and even on the body and head with no concentration of black in any area. Sesame areas appear at least one-half red. Sesame may end in a widow's peak on the forehead, leaving the bridge and sides of the muzzle red. Eye spots and lower legs are also red. Clearly delineated white markings are permitted but not required on the tip of the tail and in the form of socks on the forelegs to the elbow joint, hind legs to the knee joint. A patch of blaze is permitted on the throat, forechest, or chest in addition to urajiro. Serious fault--Cream, white pinto, or any other color or marking not specified is a very serious fault and must be penalized.
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