Guest Entry: Andre Wong on Watch them live! Shiba-Inus and the Puppy Cam

In 2008, the proud owners of six new Shiba-Inu puppies started putting up a 24/7, live feed of their dogs up for streaming on the Internet. What started out as a way to monitor the young pups remotely while the owners were out of the house exploded in online popularity; at its peak, the feed was the most viewed channel on its hosting site, UStream.com (Pickert, 2008). Millions of people all around the globe tuned in to watch these adorable puppies going about their business. The phenomenon was so widespread that it was even catching media attention from massive news outlets like Time, CNN, and The New York Times.

The six puppies were adopted three months after their video went viral. However, the UStream channel was brought back when Kika, the mother of the original litter, gave birth to another litter of puppies early this year (Emamdjomeh, 2010).  Though most of the second litter has also been adopted, the stream is still up for public viewing, which you can find here:

http://www.ustream.tv/sfshiba

Quite prudently, the owners of the dogs used the extra publicity to bring attention to rescue organizations dedicated to the breed, and they have put extra information on the actual streaming site speaking out against puppy mills as well.

The fact that so many millions of people tuned in for such a long time is testament to how adorable the Shiba-Inu breed is. But don’t just take my word for it, see the stream yourself, and be prepared to lose half your work day making baby noises at the computer screen.

Puppy power!

Sources:

Emamdjomeh, A. (2010, January 22). The shiba inu puppy cam: Reassuring squeaks in uncertain times. The New York Times, Retrieved from http://bayarea.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/01/22/visual-morphine-can-be-had-watching-shiba-inu-puppy-cam/

Pickert, K. (2008, November 11). Puppycam: For when you're sick of politics. TIME, Retrieved from http://www.time.com/time/arts/article/0,8599,1858007,00.html

Shiba inu puppy cam. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.ustream.tv/sfshiba

Shiba Inu Podcast

My mother and I talked about our dog (a shiba Inu) on what we know about it, from our experience from the beging till now. We will explain some of  the things we had trouble and some of the things we love about him. Hope you enjoy our talk about our dog Dante the Shiba Inu.


You can download the podcast from here:




http://chrisalanis.podomatic.com/entry/2011-12-02T19_56_09-08_00

The Shiba Inu Cartoon

Shiba Inu seem to be getting populare, but in many form. They are in movie, tournament, and cartoon. Most of the time they are the main character friend or the main character. Right now the most populare cartoon is the Mameshiba. They are little beans that looks like Shiba Inu. The Mameshiba is a Japanese merchandise franchise created by copywriter and Korean Japanese national Kim Sukwon. The Mameshiba are different varieties of beans (and other legumes) that have dog-like faces and tell trivia. Their name derives from a series of puns. The Japanese word for "bean" is mame, a toy version of the Shiba Inu is a mameshiba, and the Japanese word for "trivia" is mamechishiki (literally "beans of knowledge").


Mameshiba became popular through a series of animated interstitials produced by Dentsu that were sold to Japanese television networks to air instead of commercials. Their popularity in Japan and Asia eventually led to their release in the United States via Viz Media and Hot Topic.


The Mameshiba website discribe them, "What exactly is Mameshiba? They're not quite a bean, nor a dog but rather a hybrid of both. They love to apear out of nowhere and offer random bits of trivia whether you asked for it or not..."


Another short cartoon is Baby Shiba, which is made by Mameshiba. These short cartoon are interesting and funny.


Here a youtube link video:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bs6RJ7-6MpQ


Source:


Mameshiba. retrieved http://dogatch.jp/mameshibaworld/?red=mameshibaworld

Adopting One or More

How to Choose a Breeder

Often times, demand exceeds supply with Shibas and out of desperation, you feel compelled to take a chance. Find a breeder with whom you feel comfortable and work with him or her. The wait is worth it.

Be sure you have read all the information available on the Shiba on the our website and the Shiba homepage at www.shibaweb.com.

The following information is useful no matter where you decide to get a Shiba:

People listed on the NSCA and website have signed a Code of Ethics when they joined the Club. Whether they follow that code is primarily up to their own conscience. The best thing you can do is not to be in a hurry and to rely on your own good instincts as to whether you are dealing with a breeder who is right for you. If it doesn't feel right, it probably isn't.

Good Signs:

• The breeder is willing to let you visit and see all the dogs, even if there are no puppies available at the time.
• The breeder allows you to interact with his dogs and puppies except for the shy ones.
• The breeder sometimes uses males other than his own because he feels they may be a better match for some of his females.
• The breeder does not have an excessive amount of litters per year.
• The breeder has a good contract that protects you as well as himself, guarantees health, and expresses a willingness to take the puppy back if you are not satisfied. For the latter, he may or may not be willing to make restitution.
• The breeder raises his puppies in the house or in an area where they can be easily socialized.
• The breeder does all his health checks as listed in the NSCA Breeder Referral introduction.
• The breeder responds to your emails or phone calls (as long as you don't go overboard).

Bad Signs:

• Filthy conditions
• Reluctance to invite you indoors or into the kennel.
• Selling puppies under 7 to 8 weeks of age.
• Excessive bad-mouthing of other breeders.
• A breeder who says he only breeds for pets, not show dogs.
• A breeder who says his dogs don't need the health checks or refuses to show you any health certification.
• A breeder who says puppies are one price without papers and cost more if you want the papers. (Note that show prospects are more expensive than pets, but registration applications should go with all. Pets should be sold only on a spay/neuter contract and the "limited" registration should be checked on all registration applications for pets. A few breeders still withhold registration applications until proof of spaying or neutering is given. This may be done because the breeder has been "burned" by a puppy buyer who bred the dog that was sold as a pet. A limited registration does not prevent a person from physically breeding a dog, it only prevents the offspring from being registered).
• Pedigrees without some champions in the first few generations unless the dogs are direct Japanese imports.
• Breeders who have puppies in several different breeds.
• Breeders who breed "designer dogs" such a Labradoodles or peek-a-poos. These are mutts and anyone who buys them is really being taken to the cleaners.
• Puppies listed on websites that promise instant gratification and treat live puppies as casual commodities.
• A breeder who intentionally breeds FOR cream, mismarked, long-coated or "Mame" (very small) Shibas. Creams and long-coats occasionally occur in well-bred litters and are as healthy as the rest of the puppies. Mame Shibas are more prone to the health problems that plague tiny dogs such as patellar luxation and poor dentition.
• Guarantees that seem very good but state that you must feed a particular brand of dog food or give a certain supplement or the contract becomes void, because you can never prove you followed those criteria. Read a contract carefully and be sure you can fulfill all stipulations if something goes wrong with a puppy. Can you prove you followed everything?
• Even if all the good criteria have been met, you may still feel uncomfortable. Remember, if it doesn't feel right TO you, it is probably not right FOR you.

Source:
The National Shiba Inu Club  of America (1992). How to Choose a Breeder. Retrieved http://www.shibas.org/newstand/how_to_choose_breeder.html

Training Time

The Shiba Inu is a very beautiful dog. However, behind that foxy face, is a dominant, stubborn, intelligent, and extremely mischievous Shiba Inu personality. This makes them extremely challenging to care for.

Indeed Shiba Inus are not for the faint-hearted and they are not recommended for first-time dog owners.

Despite this warning, my heart was already set on a Shiba Inu puppy. I had a lot of free time then, so I thought I would be able to handle a little Shiba. After all, how difficult can a little dog be?

Even dog veterans have problems with their first Shiba.

Here are the Shiba Inu training secrets that helped me turn my little Shiba into a model citizen. Well maybe not a model citizen, but a fun citizen that I truly enjoy living with.

Shiba Inu Secret 1

There are No Miracle Cures.

Some of my Shiba favorite daily activities include biting my hands, running crazily around the house, biting on curtains, vicious leash biting, jumping on me and others, humping my leg, and much more.

I was desperate to get him under control and did a lot of research online and off-line.

I read a lot of online articles and bulletin boards.

I called local dog trainers, watched all the dog training shows on television, and read a lot of dog training books.

Sadly, there are NO “miracle cures” for training a Shiba Inu.

The secret to training a Shiba Inu is to practice extreme patience, and find humor in your Shiba’s antics. Use reward obedience training, and always be firm but fair.

A Shiba will probably never be a model citizen. However, if you are looking for a dog with a big personality; who will always make you laugh with his sneaky and roguish ways, then the Shiba Inu is for you.

Shiba Inu Secret 2

Use Passive Resistance.

The best way to deal with Shiba Inu misbehavior is through passive resistance.

Shibas get bored easily and do not like being ignored. They really like their freedom, and they like being close to their human pack. You can control a Shiba best by controlling these most desired resources: your attention, and his freedom.

If you actively try to stop your Shiba either through physical punishment (alpha rolls. leash jerk) or active restraint, he will fight back. This encourages him to practice rough play, and biting on people.

If you back away, or become fearful of your Shiba, he will learn that he “wins” by showing dog aggression.

If you over-correct your Shiba, by exerting too much physical force or by correcting him too frequently, you will lose his trust, and it is difficult to regain a Shiba Inu’s trust.

What works best with a Shiba is NOT to engage in a physical competition, but rather to engage in a mental one.

When I want to take him on his walk, I go to the door with his lead and call him to me. Initially, he would dally, and not really want to come because he wants to go walking on his own schedule. I count to three, and if he does not come by then, I leave and go about my own business.

After a short time, he will come over and pester me to take him on his walk. This is done through begging, and whining. Ignore all this bad dog behavior. When you have a break in your schedule again, repeat the above exercise.

Your Shiba will quickly learn that to get the resources that he wants most (go on walks), he has to do it according to your rules and your schedule. It is important to practice the Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF) program with a Shiba.

Set your Shiba Inu up for success so that you can reward him frequently, and keep him interested in doing what you want.

Another Shiba favorite is to steal something he is not supposed to, and then run away with it, thereby engaging a fun chase game.

A Shiba Inu is very agile, and it will be difficult for you to catch him. Always try to keep an eye out for sneaky Shiba and stop him before he steals something. Also put a drag lead on him so that you can easily catch him by stepping on the lead.

Note: Use a regular flat collar with the drag lead, not a training collar. Training collars such as prong collars or choke chains should only be used during supervised training sessions. Cut the loop on the drag-lead so that it does not catch on anything in the house.

Shiba Inu Secret 3

Rules, Rules, Rules.

Shiba Inus are naturally dominant. If you do not provide them with rules that you consistently enforce, they will take over the house.

It is best to enforce those rules as early as possible so that your Shiba does not develop any bad habits later on, that will be more difficult to break.

Some of Shiba's rules:

1. No Biting

The most important rule that I place on my Shiba is no biting on people. Shiba Inus are a very mouthy breed. Their instinct is to use their mouth in a wide variety of situations, including when they are excited, frustrated, and fearful.

They also have large teeth and can accidentally hurt children and seniors. If your Shiba starts biting on you or on others, non-mark him. If he continues, put him on a time-out.

It is also important to teach a Shiba bite inhibition so that when he loses control of himself, and does bite, he will not cause much harm.

Shiba Inu Training Secrets - No food aggression.

Shiba Inu Training Secrets - No food aggression.

Shiba Inu Training Secrets - No rough play with people.

Shiba Inu Training Secrets - No rough play with people.

2. No Food Aggression or Resource Guarding

Prevent your Shiba Inu from guarding resources. Shibas have a don’t back down, don’t surrender, attitude. Therefore, the best way to teach them not to guard resources is to use purely positive techniques.

Show them that people and other dogs coming near them while they are eating or playing with their toys is a good thing. Exchange objects with them so that they learn that giving up something does not mean that it is gone forever.

If you use physical force to grab a toy away from a Shiba, he will likely become more possessive over his objects. He will also lose trust in you and may use aggression to protect himself and his belongings.

3. No Rough Play

I do not play rough with my Shiba. He gets to wrestle with my other dog, but no wrestling allowed with humans.

I also do not play any dominance games with him, (Tug-of-War). The few times that I did play Tug with Shiba, he followed very strict rules during the game. However, when I took him out for dog walks, he would start playing tug with the leash (leash biting).

Shiba Inu Secret 4

Socialize Your Shiba Inu.

Shiba Inus can get aggressive to unfamiliar things including objects, dogs, people, and environments.

They are also naturally stubborn, and may become aggressive when forced to do things that they do not like.

Socialize your young Shiba to many sights, sounds, and smells, and he will be ready to handle new things as a confident, and well-balanced adult. Make sure that new experiences are always positive, and at worst, neutral.

Some things to consider while socializing your Shiba Inu:

1. Shiba Inus have an extreme play style that many other dogs may not like.

When I used to take my Shiba to a dog parks, his favorite play partners were larger dogs and young Pit Bulls. Shibas like doing wrestling and rough play which can easily overwhelm other small dogs.

Choose your Shiba’s play-mates carefully, so that a fun time can be had by all.

2. Shiba Inus dislike handling.

Socialize your Shiba to touching, and grooming as early as possible. Pair the touching and grooming with very good treats so that he will associate handling with positive things.

Do not use physical force to do any grooming. This will make it into an unpleasant experience and your Shiba will fight you every step of the way.

Groom gently, and stop after short sessions.

3. Shiba Inus do not generally like people petting them from above.

Petting from above can be seen as a dominance move by dogs, and Shibas may see this as a threat.

You can slowly desensitize your Shiba to this by pairing petting from above with good food rewards. At the same time, instruct people to approach from under your dog’s head and scratch his chest, instead of the top of his head.

Shiba Inu Secret 5

Control Your Own Energy.

The most important thing to remember while interacting with your Shiba is to control your own energy.

Shiba Inus are especially sensitive to the energy of their owners.

When I first got Shiba puppy, he was extremely mouthy. He would bite all over my hands and arms. He would also resort to biting when I stopped him from doing something unacceptable.

This made me become afraid of him.

Things quickly degenerated from there. As soon as I got fearful he would start to hump my leg, grab my clothes, jump on me, or bite my hands, arms, and legs.

Anger and frustration will also elicit extreme Shiba behaviors.

I used to have my parents walk our at the park. When the they tried to stop him from doing something, he would object, and try out one of his patented Shiba Inu moves, including alligator rolls, leash biting, hand biting, and of course the Shiba scream.

My parents naturally got embarrassed when he screamed like he was about to die. There were other people around, and some of them thought that they was mistreating the poor dog. Our Shiba easily sensed their embarrassment and frustration. From then on, the Shiba scream was his favorite weapon to use against them.

With a Shiba Inu, it is important to stay calm at all times.

If you lose your cool, your Shiba will sense it and he will continue to use this weakness against you.

The best way to handle a misbehaving Shiba, is to stay calm, and remove him from the area as soon as he starts to act out. If he persists, he gets his freedoms revoked with a time-out. Remember that fear, anger, frustration, and other extreme emotions will only make the problem worse.

Once I was able to control my fear and remain calm, things improved significantly with my Shiba.

He will never be a model-citizen, but nowadays, he is actually very fun to be with. He is goofy, he is funny, and he usually stays out of serious trouble.

Shibas can be a big challenge to live with, but they are well worth the effort. They have a great personality, and they are always up to something that will make you laugh.

I love my Shiba Inu.

He is one of my best buddies, and whenever I see him, I just have to smile.

Source:
shibashake. Shiba Inu Training Secrets. Retrieved http://shibashake.com/dog/shiba-inu-training-secrets

Exercise Your Shiba Inu

Shiba Inus are agile and active dogs. They need to have plenty of exercise each day in order to keep them healthy. Shibas range in size but are typically compact and muscular dogs that weigh up to about 25 pounds. A certain amount of daily exercise is paramount to good health and good temperament.


Starting when your Shiba is a puppy you will need to train him. Training is important to giving your Shiba the exercise he needs. He must be able to walk on a leash and most importantly be able to socialize with other dogs or people that he may encounter. Since the Shiba's temperament in somewhat protective and can be demanding it is important to socialize your puppy from an early age. This will allow you to be able to exercise your Shiba more freely.


Shibas need lots of room to run and play. Ideally they need a fenced yard where they can play and run without a leash. The Shiba is very family oriented, however, and craves time spent with his people. You'll want to spend some time each day taking your dog for a walk. Since Shibas were originally bred as hunting dogs they love a good game of fetch.


Shibas are smart dogs and learn quickly. They thrive on routines so it's best to set up a daily routine that you can stick to. This includes daily exercise. Make sure that you establish daily walks with your Shiba from an early age. Shibas are sturdy and have a lot of stamina. They like to play catch, sometimes for long periods of time. They enjoy playing in the outdoors but should not be left outside. Shibas love to be part of the family. In fact they sometimes think that they own the family!


A regular exercise routine should be established even as a puppy. When playing with your Shiba avoid games where they bite. Shibas love to chew things and they like to play with people's hands. Don't play games that encourage this behavior such as tug of war. Children should be taught the proper way to play with a puppy. Never approach a dog in a mean way or as if to hit the dog and of course never strike a dog. This can cause a dog to become more aggressive.


If you have children your Shiba will want to be right in the middle of all the action. Training is important and should start at an early age. Shibas can be somewhat aggressive and want their own way. It is important to understand these tendencies and to train the puppy to obey commands and to walk on a leash as early as possible. Keeping your Shiba exercised will help to curb some of the aggressive behavior that can sometimes happen. Shibas are very territorial and make good guard dogs. You'll want to ensure that they listen especially when you have guests.


Always provide plenty of fresh water for your pet especially after exercising. If you take the dog on long walks be sure to bring along a portable dog water kit so you can provide water quickly.

Shiba Inu Food

Before bringing home your Shiba it is best to have a supply of food on hand. Several boxes of granola, some oranges (for vitamin C) and a few sandwiches should give you enough energy to keep up with the little guy. Even though the Shiba would prefer to share your dinner, it is best to buy him a top quality dog food, one containing about 30% protein and 15 - 18% fat. Do not think in terms of a human diet when feeding a puppy. An 8 week old Shiba will eat approximately 1/3 Cup of puppy food three times daily. He may be given this moistened in separate feedings, or, if he is not too greedy, he may have dry kibble available at all times. If he is being fed three times a day, gradually increase the food as he grows and his appetite increases. He may be cut to twice a day at about 4 months of age or if he loses interest in a meal. A healthy puppy is neither too fat or too thin.

You should be able to feel his ribs, backbone and hip bones, but not see them. An adult Shiba will eat from 1 to 1.5 cups of kibble per day depending on his size and energy level.

The best dog food brand I been to by veterinary, pet store owner, and dogs owners.

Dog Food Brand:

• Orijen Dog Food
• Horizon Legacy Dog Food
• Acana Dog Food
• Artemis Dog Food
• Merrick Dog Food
• Taste of the Wild Dog Food
• Wellness Core Dog Food
• Instinct Dog Food
• GO Dog Food
• Fromm Dog Food

These brands may be healthie for you Shiba Inu, but they may be not like it  and not eat it. I recomend just buying the small bags first, to see if your Shiba likes it.

Source: 
Dog Training Central. The Best Dog Food What Are Your Options?. Retrieved http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/best-dog-food.html

Toys, toys, toys!!!

It can sometimes be challenging to keep your dog engaged and well exercised. And we all know that when left to find their own “entertainment”, a dog will come up with many ingenious ways to cause great property damage.

Investing in some dog toys will make everyone happier, and ultimately save you a lot more money.

Below are a list of dog toys that my dogs enjoy most. To keep your dog’s interest in his toys, you may want to cycle through different toys, each day of the week.

Note that the following descriptions are only based on my or other dog trainers experiences with these toys. Different dogs have different temperaments and will have different responses to a dog toy.

1. Hol-ee Roller Ball

These balls are great and safe for the teeth. All we have to do is get some hard dog biscuits, and put them into the Hol-ee Roller Ball.

There are two versions of the Hol-ee Roller Ball – the regular ball which has thinner rubber joints, and the extreme-ball which has thick rubber joints. I much prefer the extreme version because it is more challenging, as well as more durable.

Amazon Deals:

Hol-ee Roller
http://tinyurl.com/6murlrb

Hol-ee Roller X Extreme
http://tinyurl.com/6oo2jpc

2. Kong Rubber Toys

Kong rubber toys are tough and safe for most dogs.

I usually put canned dog food into a Kong Classic rubber toy, and then freeze it. This is a fun way to occupy my dog, especially when he is in his crate.

Sometimes, I further entice my dog by dropping in some cheese or sardines, before putting in the canned food. This provides the extra umph that gets him to work through the Kong.

Some other fun Kong toys are the Kong Dental Stick and the Kong Jump’n Jack. I stuff Innova EVO Small Bite kibble, or boiled chicken into the grooves of these two toys, and let my dogs chew on them.

You can also use Kong Stuff ‘N Paste, but I personally would not recommend it. The Kong paste frequently makes a mess all over the floor, and is not made from particularly good ingredients.

Amazon Deals:

http://tinyurl.com/849l2nd

3. Premier Busy Buddy Collection

My dogs like many of the Premier Busy Buddy interactive food toys.

The Twist and Treat is a good one to start with. Simply untwist the dog toy, put kibble inside, then twist the cover back on. At first, do not twist the cover on too tightly. In this way, our dog gets rewarded well for playing with the toy. Once the dog gains some experience, we can start tightening the lid more.

CAUTION: My Shiba Inu was able to tear off chunks from this toy when it was left with him unsupervised. Luckily, he just likes shredding and does not eat the shredded bits. It is best to take this toy away, once our dog is done with getting all the kibble out.

The Squirrel Dude is another fun dog toy that we can fill with kibble or other treats. If our dog has trouble getting the food out, we can cut off some of the rubber tabs at the bottom of the toy.

The most interesting one in the group is the Tug-a-Jug . I think it is hardest to get food out of this toy, so my Shiba Inu will only work on it when he is bored or really hungry, and does not have access to other food toys.

Initially, I unscrew the cover from the bottom of the jug, and fill up the jug with a good amount of kibble (over half full). This ensures that my dog is amply rewarded for playing with the toy. After he gains some experience, I slowly reduce the amount of kibble in the jug. It is difficult to get the last bits of kibble out, so I add more before the jug becomes too empty.

Amazon Deal:

http://tinyurl.com/7nslqw7

http://tinyurl.com/77nnm7n

http://tinyurl.com/89mj688

4. Buster Cube

In the beginning, I put the Buster Cube setting to maximum, so that my dog will be motivated to play with it. As my dog learns how the toy works, I slowly decrease the cube setting to make it more challenging.

When filling the cube, make sure all the kibble goes into the holes around the central column. Otherwise, the kibble will just collect at the bottom of the column. Then, when the Cube gets rolled, all the collected kibble will come out at once.

The Buster Cube does not work well on slippery, hard, surfaces (e.g. tile floors, wooden floors), because it will only slide on the floor, rather than roll. As a result, no food will come out. The Cube is good for carpeted surfaces and for outdoors.

Amazon Deal:

http://tinyurl.com/7hkex9d

5. Rhino Stuff & Chew

This nice rubber chew ball has chambers all around, that we may fill with food. It is most effective to use wet food, such as sardines, or boiled chicken. Sardines work really well with my Shiba Inu, and he is extremely motivated to get it all out.

Amazon Deal:

http://tinyurl.com/833gv9a

6. Nylabone Crazy Ball

The Nylabone Crazy Ball has a ball within a ball. It is easy to fill with dry dog treats, and the design is such that the treats do not come out too quickly.

The Crazy Ball comes with a small box of treats that are properly sized for the toy, but they are no longer sold. As an alternative, I fill the Crazy Ball with gog Treats. Just break the treats if to to a good size.

One issue with the Nylabone Crazy Ball is that it is made of hard plastic and can be rather noisy, especially on hard wooden floors. You may want to stay away from this one if you want to hear alot of noises.

7. Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball

The Omega Treat Ball is a great kibble ball. It is easy to fill with Innova small kibble, and the ball only releases a few pieces of kibble at a time. As a result, this toy engages my Shiba Inu for a good amount of time.

Amazon Deal:

http://tinyurl.com/7f5tyvo

8. Cheap Dog Toys

I have found many good deals on Amazon by looking through their discount dog toys. Here are some 50%-70% discount dog toys at Amazon.

http://tinyurl.com/6tua4ej

For this to work well, you may want to join Amazon Prime to save on shipping and handling costs.

Grooming

These are fantastically clean dogs, so grooming needs will likely be at a minimum for most individuals. A Shiba Inu coat is short, coarse and naturally waterproof, so there is little need for regular bathing. However, there is one one drawback - shedding, also known as blowing coat. They have a thick undercoat that can protect them from temperatures well below freezing. Shedding is heaviest during the seasonal change, but brushing should be performed on a daily basis whenever possible.


During the shedding season, which some owners swear is from January to December, it is highly recommended to use a comb to remove as much dead hair as possible. There are also doggie brush and vacuum combos that suck up the loose hair as you brush, very convenient if you can get one.

The best grooming tool I was told to buy and I agree the""Fur Free" brush. It takes all the dead hair off your pet, it great to use. Most pet groomers use these when you take you pet to get groom. Here a picture of the brush I use.

 

Health

Shiba Medications Allergy
There are several common health problems that always strike Shibas. Allergies to medication being the most common issue. As a responsible pet owner, your dog should receive proper vaccinations regularly from professional vets.

Whenever bring your dog to see a vet, you should always pay attentions to treatments that your dog going to have. Show your concern to the health of your Shiba and alert your vet that your pet is Shiba and sensitive to medications, stay in the vet’s clinic at least 30 minutes before you leave as a precautionary measure to ensure it has no negative reactions after medications.

Thyroid Problems
Another common health issue that Shiba may have is the thyroid problems. Thyroid problems vary and may cause several symptoms such as overweight or underweight. Serious thyroid problems can also lower the immune system.

Do not blame your Shiba if it has sudden change in its behavior and become aggressive. It may due to hidden thyroid problem. A better understanding on your your pet’s normal behavior patterns is important so that you can easily find out when something goes wrong. If it happen to be the thyroid disease, a proper medication can always resolve the issues that occurred.

Eye Defects & Vision Problems
Eye defects are the main reason that causes the degradation of Shiba’s vision. It is commonly found in this dog and should be checked by a veterinarian. When you buy a new Shiba puppy home, you should always take it to your vet for examination as soon as possible. The vet can do a thorough examination and make sure that there are no congenital defects or other problems that you need to be aware of, such as eyes defect. Proper medications will be provided by the vet if it is found with eye problems.

Food Allergic
Proper dog food feeding with dog dry food that contains well balanced amount of vitamins is crucial in keeping them healthy. Be aware of certain food that you buy from the store. Some dog foods are not suitable for dog as it may contain certain chemicals that may kill the dog in long term. Short terms problems seen would be the food allergic. A proper diet should be given to Shiba dogs. Dog Food Secrets written by Andrew is one of the well-written book that explain in details.

Generally Shiba is a sturdy dog that always stays fit. As long as proper care is provided, they are always healthy. If you need to study on how to keep your dog healthy and stay away from minor or major health issues, please refer to Malcolm Fields’s book – Dog Health Guide that is well-written on how you can deal with many health issues such as eye problems, ear problems, stomach and bowel disorders, vomiting, diarrhea, tooth and teething troubles, asthma and breathing woes, liver issues, older dog health concerns, or that pesky limp with a dozen possible causes and ways to treat them. 




Source: 
The National Shiba Inu Club  of America (1992). AN OVERVIEW OF HEALTH PROBLEMS IN THE SHIBA INU. Retrieved http://www.shibas.org/newstand/health.html

Temperament

 The Shiba Inu is a unique breed. Intelligent, active, energetic, they think pretty highly of themselves. They are famous for their spirited boldness and independent nature. If you are not careful, they will train you. Early obedience training is important, but even then, Shibas don't really enjoy being obedient. Off leash work is especially challenging and the recall might require a miracle. They love to run and they love to run away. They are escape artists and owners must be careful every single time they open a door because they will bolt. Some can even climb chain link fences. Shibas have been known to disappear for days at a time. They will hunt mice, squirrels, and other small animals if they can. Shibas need regular exercise but a spirited 30 minute walk each day should suffice. They are good watchdogs and only bark when there is a reason. They are reserved toward strangers. They tend to be aggressive toward other dogs, and can coexist peacefully with cats, but if a cat runs away, there's a good chance the Shiba will chase it. Shibas will do well with older, well-behaved children, but some are afraid of young children and alarmed by their squeals and quick movements. Many Shibas will run and hide from toddlers. If the toddler pursues the dog, it could easily result in a fear-biting incident. While a Shiba can be sweet, you will earn whatever affection you get. They are not lapdogs and prefer to sit beside you, not on you. They are not particularly cuddly and don't really like to be held. They spend a lot of time on their own, enjoying some quiet solitude. Because they don't really like to be touched or handled, grooming can be a real challenge. They are generally quiet, but do possess the Shiba scream -- a high-pitched banshee call. They let this scream go whenever they are unhappy, and it can be a bit embarrassing. They can be a bit of a drama queen. But despite all of the breed's idiosyncrasies, Shiba owners will tell you they are the best breed in the world: funny, loyal, playful and fast to housetrain. So if you want a dog who thinks he's smarter than you, and will try to push your buttons, then you might consider the beautiful, athletic, energetic Shiba.


Source:
Jacey Holden (1995). Shiba Inu. Retrieved http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/breeds/shibas.html

Appearance

General Appearance
The Shiba Inu is the smallest of the Japanese native breeds of dog and was originally developed for hunting by sight and scent in the dense undergrowth of Japan's mountainous areas. Alert and agile with keen senses, he is also an excellent watchdog and companion. His frame is compact with well-developed muscles. Males and females are distinctly different in appearance: males are masculine without coarseness, females are feminine without weakness of structure.

Size
Males 14½ inches to 16½ inches at withers. Females 13½ inches to 15½ inches. The preferred size is the middle of the range for each sex. Average weight at preferred size is approximately 23 pounds for males, 17 pounds for females. Males have a height to length ration of 10 to 11, females slightly longer. Bone is moderate. Disqualification--Males over 16½ inches in dogs and under 14½ inches. Females over 15½ inches and under 13½ inches.

Head
Expression is good natured with a strong and confident gaze. Eyes are somewhat triangular in shape, deep set, and upward slanting toward the outside base of the ear. Iris is dark brown. Eye rims are black. Ears are triangular in shape, firmly pricked and small, but in proportion to head and body size. Ears are set well apart and tilt directly forward with the slant of the back of the ear following the arch of the neck. Skull size is moderate and in proportion to the body. Forehead is broad and flat with a slight furrow. Stop is moderate. Muzzle is firm, full, and round with a stronger lower jaw projecting from full cheeks. The bridge of the muzzle is straight. Muzzle tapers slightly from stop to nose tip. Muzzle length is 40% of the total head length from occiput to nose tip. It is preferred that whiskers remain intact. Lips are tight and black. Nose is black. Bite is scissors, with a full complement of strong, substantial, evenly aligned teeth. Serious Fault: Five or more missing teeth is a very serious fault and must be penalized. Disqualification--Overshot or undershot bite.

Body
Neck is thick, sturdy, and of moderate length. Topline is straight and level to the base of the tail. Body is dry and well muscled without the appearance of sluggishness or coarseness. Forechest is well developed. Chest depth measured from the withers to the lowest point of the sternum is one-half or slightly less than the total height from withers to ground. Ribs are moderately sprung. Abdomen is firm and well tucked-up. Back is firm. Loins are strong. Tail is thick and powerful and is carried over the back in a sickle or curled position. A loose single curl or sickle tail pointing vigorously toward the neck and nearly parallel to the back is preferred. A double curl or sickle tail pointing upward is acceptable. In length the tail reaches nearly to the hock joint when extended. Tail is set high.

Coat
Double coated with the outer coat being stiff and straight and the undercoat soft and thick. Fur is short and even on face, ears, and legs. Guard hairs stand off the body are about 1½ to 2 inches in length at the withers. Tail hair is slightly longer and stands open in a brush. It is preferred that the Shiba be presented in a natural state. Trimming of the coat must be severely penalized. Serious Fault--Long or woolly coat.

Color
Coat color is as specified herein, with the three allowed colors given equal consideration. All colors are clear and intense. The undercoat is cream, buff or gray. Urajiro (cream to white ventral color) is required in the following areas on all coat colors: on the sides of the muzzle, on the cheeks, inside the ears, on the underjaw and upper throat inside of legs, on the abdomen, around the vent and the ventral side of the tail. On reds: commonly on the throat, forechest, and chest. On blacks and sesames: commonly as a triangular mark on both sides of the forechest. White spots above the eyes permitted on all colors but not required. Bright orange-red with urajiro lending a foxlike appearance to dogs of this color. Clear red preferred but a very slight dash of black tipping is permitted on the back and tail. Black with tan points and urajiro. Black hairs have a brownish cast, not blue. The undercoat is buff or gray. The borderline between black and tan areas is clearly defined. Tan points are located as follows: two oval spots over the eyes: on the sides of the muzzle between the black bridge of the muzzle and the white cheeks; on the outside of the forelegs from the carpus, or a little above, downward to the toes; on the outside of the hind legs down the front of the stifle broadening from hock joint to toes, but not completely eliminating black from rear of pasterns. Black penciling on toes permitted. Tan hairs may also be found on the inside of the ear and on the underside of the tail. Sesame (black-tipped hairs on a rich red background) with urajiro. Tipping is light and even on the body and head with no concentration of black in any area. Sesame areas appear at least one-half red. Sesame may end in a widow's peak on the forehead, leaving the bridge and sides of the muzzle red. Eye spots and lower legs are also red. Clearly delineated white markings are permitted but not required on the tip of the tail and in the form of socks on the forelegs to the elbow joint, hind legs to the knee joint. A patch of blaze is permitted on the throat, forechest, or chest in addition to urajiro. Serious fault--Cream, white pinto, or any other color or marking not specified is a very serious fault and must be penalized.

The Good, the Bad, and the Weird

Many people fall in love with the ‘Shiba look’ but are not equipped to handle his larger than life personality.

The Good

1. A Shiba Inu is a dog that is more like a cat


They are independent and very clean.

They are extremely easy to potty train and like having their humans around in the general vicinity. However, they are aloof like cats, and do not need or want human affection much of the time.

2. A Shiba Inu is a good watch dog

A Shiba Inu is not a noisy dog. However, when there are strange people or strange noises around the house he will bark to alert you.

Shibas have great memory and will alert you to anything out of place around the house and even in a familiar neighborhood.

3. A Shiba Inu is graceful, agile, and high energy

They can leap tall fences in a single bound and can scale walls like Spiderman. If properly directed, his super powers can be used for good. However, when left on his own, the Shiba will likely turn towards the Dark Side.

It is a great hiking buddy and is always up for a new challenge. They can easily learn and conquer an agility course but will only do it, if you make it worth his while.

4. A Shiba Inu is a doggy Einstein

A Shiba Inu can learn many dog obedience commands and he can learn them very quickly. They also thinks that he is much smarter than you, and will only obey you when it suits him.

It can quickly figure out complex interactive dog toys and puzzles. A Shiba will challenge you and keep you sharp and on your toes!

5. A Shiba Inu has a larger than life personality

A Shiba Inu may be small in body, but he has a enormous personality. If a Shiba were a person, he would either be an extremely successful egomaniac or in prison!




The Bad


1. A Shiba Inu is bold, strong willed, and stubborn

The Shiba Inu has a “Never give up, Never surrender” attitude. Which will not back down from a challenge and will often fight back when he perceives a threat. Because of this, many owners face aggression issues with their Shiba including food aggression, dog to dog aggression, and people aggression.

To successfully live with a Shiba Inu, you must be extremely patient and have a good sense of humor.

Turn a Shiba’s annoying habits against him.

For example, a Shiba gets bored easily. If you ignore him and give him nothing to react to, he will quickly lose interest, and move on to something else.

Shibas can be very competitive. If they see another dog getting praise and rewards, they will want to strut their stuff and show that they are better.

Work with a Shiba’s innate personality and use it motivate him in the right direction. Passive resistance and reward obedience training work best.

2. A Shiba Inu has a sly, roughish intelligence

A Shiba Inu is super intelligent. He will most often use his brain power to “push your buttons” and get what he wants.

Beware the Shiba look – it is one of their most powerful weapons and will use it to great effect if they senses any weakness in you. Before you know it, your Shiba will have gotten you trained to fetch, stay, and rub tummy.

Remember that a Shiba Inu will do whatever he wants if he can get away with it. If he can’t get away with it, he will figure out another way to get away with it. When he gets caught with his nose in the cookie jar, he will give you the innocent “What did I do?” look and then come over and lick your hand. Once you turn away, he is back in the cookie jar!

3. A Shiba Inu is like the Hulk

He is capable of great feats of agility but if untrained, he will use it to destroy and cause great havoc in the household.

If bored and lonely, he will escape by jumping over or burrowing under your fence. He can squeeze through small holes, bite through leashes, and achieve amazing great escapes that will make Houdini proud.

If not properly supervised, a Shiba will pull down items from counters and shred them to pieces. He may even eat some of those pieces.

A Shiba Inu, especially a young Shiba Inu has a lot of energy. It takes a lot to keep him occupied and away from trouble. Getting him a dog playmate can help. Another alternative is to put him in dog daycare or to employ the services of a dog walker.

4. A Shiba Inu is a Drama Queen

Woe be to you if your Shiba gets hurt or even just thinks that they are hurt. Woe be to you, woe be to your vet, and woe be to anyone who tries to help. They are extremely touchy when in this state, and may snap and bite at anyone who comes near them.

5. A Shiba Inu is a great singer

A Shiba Inu does not bark much but he has a wide range of vocal styling.

The most well known is the "Shiba-scream", which is a high pitched, loud scream that will make your blood curdle. Your neighbors will think you are torturing your poor little dog.

A Shiba Inu will quickly learn to use his Shiba-scream against you if you let him. Do not get embarrassed, and do not give him a reaction during a Shiba-scream. Just ignore him and go about your business and he will stop. Remember that he can sense your inner energy, not just your outward appearance.

6. A Shiba Inu knows he is dog royalty

A Shiba Inu does not like being touched or handled. Cutting nails, bathing, or a vet examination, is never fun for any breed of dog, but with a Shiba it can be total hell.

He wants his subjects close enough to serve him but not too close as to sully his royal person.

7. A Shiba Inu pretends not to understand ‘Obedience’

"Obedience? What’s that?"

Shibas Inus think that you should be obedient to them and not the other way around. If you want a Shiba to do something for you, you had better make him a good offer.

A Shiba Inu can be a good citizen at home, but he must be properly managed. Shibas are strong willed, independent, and bred to hunt. Aversive training does not work well on them. Shiba owners need to be creative and flexible when interacting with their dog.

A Shiba Inu is not to be trusted off-leash unless in a fully enclosed area.

8. A Shiba Inu has nasty, wicked teeth

For a small dog, a Shiba Inu has very large teeth, and he is not afraid to use them.

Shiba Inus are a primitive breed and they lose control more easily than other more domesticated dog breeds.




Source: 
Your Purebred Puppy. Shiba Inu Temperament What's Good About 'Em, What's Bad About 'Em. Retrieved http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/reviews/shibainu.html

The Shiba Inu Traits

Though he is conveniently sized, easy to groom, clean and quiet indoors, and not a nuisance underfoot, the Shiba Inu is not an easy-to-live-with lapdog, but a bold, high-spirited, "big dog" in a compact body. This breed is very challenging to raise. The dog must always be kept on-leash, for he has a high prey drive and quick reflexes and will pursue anything that moves. He can outrun and out dodge any human. Your fences must be secure; indeed, if the Shiba Inu is ever outdoors when unsupervised, he really should have a covered run if you want to be sure of finding him in the yard where you left him. Otherwise, his agile jumping, climbing, or digging skills may send him over or under an ordinary fence. And once he is lose, he is gone. You must stay one step ahead of the Shiba Inu, for he is both dominant and clever. The dog often tries to manipulate through intimidation and when displeased by something can emit a loud scream which may catch you totally unprepared. With his marked stubborn streak and mischievous sense of humor, the Shiba Inu does best with owners who are firm, confident, and consistent.Shibas are possessive of their toys and food; it is said that if they could utter one word, it would be "Mine!"

The meaning of Shiba Inu

The name is still in question, since it has different meanings. "Inu" is the Japanese word for dog, but the origin of "Shiba" is less clear. The "Shiba" means "brushwood" in Japanese and it refers to a type of tree or leaves that turn red in the fall. This leads to some to believe that the Shiba Inu  was name after this because the dogs were used to hunt in the wild or the Shiba Inu most common color is red, similar to the leaves in the fall. However, in old Nagano dialect, the word "Shiba" also means "small", this might be a reference to the dog's small size. Which the Shiba Inu is sometimes  translated as "Little Brushwood Dog".

The Shiba Inu History

Hello, my name is Christopher, I'm a student of UTD. I will be blogging about the Shiba Inu, since I have one and thinking of getting another one. The Shiba Inu was bred to hunt and flush small animals, such as birds and rabbits. Despite efforts to preserve the breed, the Shiba nearly became extinct during World War II. All the dogs were bred from the only three surviving of the Shiba Inu bloodlines, these bloodlines were the Shinshu Shiba from Nagano Prefecture, the Mino Shiba from Gifu Prefecture, and the San'in Shiba from Shimane Prefectures. The Shinshu Shibas possessed a solid undercoat, with dense layer of guard-hairs, and were small and red in color. The Mino Shibas tended to have thick, prick ears, and possessed a sickle tail, rather than the common curled tail found on most modern Shibas. The San'in Shibas were larger than most modern shibas, and tended to be black, without the common tan and white accents found on modern black-and-tan shibas. When the study of Japanese dogs was formalized in the early and mid-20th century, these three were combined into one overall breed, the Shiba Inu. The first Japanese breed standard for the Shiba, the Nippo Standard, was published in 1934. In December 1936, the Shiba Inu was recognized as a Natural Monument of Japan through the Cultural Properties Act, largely due to the efforts of Nihon Ken Hozonkai (Nippo), the Association for the Preservation of the Japanese Dog.
In 1954, an armed service family brought the first Shiba Inu to the USA. In 1979, the first recorded litter was born in the United States. The Shiba was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1992 and added to the AKC (Non-Sporting Group) in 1993. It is now primarily kept as a pet both in Japan and abroad.

Source: 
Kennel saijoto Shiba's. History of the Shiba. Retrieved 
http://www.saijoto.dk/english/diverse/history.htm