Often times, demand exceeds supply with Shibas and out of desperation, you feel compelled to take a chance. Find a breeder with whom you feel comfortable and work with him or her. The wait is worth it.
Be sure you have read all the information available on the Shiba on the our website and the Shiba homepage at www.shibaweb.com.
The following information is useful no matter where you decide to get a Shiba:
People listed on the NSCA and website have signed a Code of Ethics when they joined the Club. Whether they follow that code is primarily up to their own conscience. The best thing you can do is not to be in a hurry and to rely on your own good instincts as to whether you are dealing with a breeder who is right for you. If it doesn't feel right, it probably isn't.
Good Signs:
- The breeder is willing to let you visit and see all the dogs, even if there are no puppies available at the time.
- The breeder allows you to interact with his dogs and puppies except for the shy ones.
- The breeder sometimes uses males other than his own because he feels they may be a better match for some of his females.
- The breeder does not have an excessive amount of litters per year.
- The breeder has a good contract that protects you as well as himself, guarantees health, and expresses a willingness to take the puppy back if you are not satisfied. For the latter, he may or may not be willing to make restitution.
- The breeder raises his puppies in the house or in an area where they can be easily socialized.
- The breeder does all his health checks as listed in the NSCA Breeder Referral introduction.
- The breeder responds to your emails or phone calls (as long as you don't go overboard).
Bad Signs:
- Filthy conditions
- Reluctance to invite you indoors or into the kennel.
- Selling puppies under 7 to 8 weeks of age.
- Excessive bad-mouthing of other breeders.
- A breeder who says he only breeds for pets, not show dogs.
- A breeder who says his dogs don't need the health checks or refuses to show you any health certification.
- A breeder who says puppies are one price without papers and cost more if you want the papers. (Note that show prospects are more expensive than pets, but registration applications should go with all. Pets should be sold only on a spay/neuter contract and the "limited" registration should be checked on all registration applications for pets. A few breeders still withhold registration applications until proof of spaying or neutering is given. This may be done because the breeder has been "burned" by a puppy buyer who bred the dog that was sold as a pet. A limited registration does not prevent a person from physically breeding a dog, it only prevents the offspring from being registered).
- Pedigrees without some champions in the first few generations unless the dogs are direct Japanese imports.
- Breeders who have puppies in several different breeds.
- Breeders who breed "designer dogs" such a Labradoodles or peek-a-poos. These are mutts and anyone who buys them is really being taken to the cleaners.
- Puppies listed on websites that promise instant gratification and treat live puppies as casual commodities.
- A breeder who intentionally breeds FOR cream, mismarked, long-coated or "Mame" (very small) Shibas. Creams and long-coats occasionally occur in well-bred litters and are as healthy as the rest of the puppies. Mame Shibas are more prone to the health problems that plague tiny dogs such as patellar luxation and poor dentition.
- Guarantees that seem very good but state that you must feed a particular brand of dog food or give a certain supplement or the contract becomes void, because you can never prove you followed those criteria. Read a contract carefully and be sure you can fulfill all stipulations if something goes wrong with a puppy. Can you prove you followed everything?
- Even if all the good criteria have been met, you may still feel uncomfortable. Remember, if it doesn't feel right TO you, it is probably not right FOR you.
Source:
The National Shiba Inu Club of America (1992). How to Choose a Breeder. Retrieved http://www.shibas.org/newstand/how_to_choose_breeder.html
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